Written by Dr. Sherry Weaver
I have a nine-month-old Chocolate Labrador named Choco. He stays outside 24/7 and tends to tear up things in his pen due to teething and probably boredom.
I started to give him rawhide bones to help his teething and to keep him from chewing up his dog house and other things. Also, I keep giving him different toys as well. I was told by a friend that rawhide bones aren't good for them, that it's hard for them to digest. Is this true? If so, what else can I do to keep him from tearing up everything while we are at work?
Thanks,
Julie Butler
Dear Julie,
All puppies have an undeniable need to chew, and labs can be among the worst. The key to keeping an intelligent dog like a lab from being destructive is to provide a stimulating environment. A big part of this stimulation should be playing with owners and training. When owners are not available, appropriate toys for both education and chewing are extremely helpful.
The truth is that there are no completely safe chew toys. Any product that is swallowed has the potential to cause an upset stomach. All natural products are preserved with chemicals, and rawhide has been found to have unhealthy chemicals and bacteria. Our biggest worries are toys that cause more serious problems such as blockages or tooth fractures. The key to safe use of any toy is to read labels and watch your dog at play with the toy to determine which is best for him as an individual.
Rawhides have the advantage of being tasty and relatively inexpensive. Most dogs love them. The disadvantage of rawhide is that it can be quickly chewed into small chunks, and dogs have been known to swallow pieces too large and get blocked up. These blockages are extremely rare, especially with single-ply rawhide, but you should watch your dog play with the rawhide and take it away if he is breaking off large chunks to swallow. When the rawhides wear down to a swallow-able sized piece, they should be thrown away. If your dog is a slower chewer and makes a rawhide last for a day or two, then it can be appropriate. When you do buy rawhide, try to get it from a reputable manufacturer, although the recent pet food crisis has made us all aware that even that is not enough to guarantee a lack of harmful chemicals.
Another common natural product available in pet stores is the large beef leg bones. These bones are too hard for most dogs to splinter and swallow (although if they do it has a chance of causing some stomach problems which may require surgery for removal.) The main disadvantage to these bones is that they very commonly cause fractures in the dog’s teeth.
Some people still give dogs poultry bones to chew (especially around the holidays). These bones shatter easily into extremely sharp long shards and can cause a pretty nasty irritation in the stomach and on down the intestines. Although it is rare for a dog to get Salmonella, you should be careful about feeding raw poultry bones. I usually recommend that my patients avoid any bones.
Many dogs seem to enjoy the taste of cow hooves, and they are relatively safe for the teeth. However, they do seem to be easily swallowed. If your dog tends to swallow large pieces, they are not right for you.
I have recently been seeing “bully bones” in the pet stores. This piece of cow anatomy is relatively new to the pet market, but it seems very safe. It can be chewed up relatively quickly, but appears to be pretty digestible. The only disadvantage I have found is that they can be a little expensive and often don’t last very long. But, so far, this is one of the safest chew products that I have found.
Soft rubber squeaky toys are great for small gentle dogs, but usually do not last very long with big dogs. Dogs that chew them up quickly will often swallow the squeaker or big chunks of the rubber. Usually these squeakers are too small to cause a blockage, but you should look at each one compared to the size of your dog. Squeaky toys can be fun, safe, and inexpensive, but not very practical if you go through several a day.
Harder rubber chew toys are often not very exciting to dogs due to lack of flavor. They are unlikely to cause stomach problems, but they can cause tooth fractures. Some of them have a place in the middle to fill with a treat or some peanut butter, so they become more popular with the dogs. The advantage of these is that they last a long time, and they are almost impossible to chew up.
Balls of various sorts are the most common things that I have had to surgically remove from a dogs’ stomach. Again, if your dog chews up balls quickly, it is not an appropriate toy, but if he just carries it around, it is probably safe.
In recent years, it has become easier to find dogs new “educational toys”. These toys are often balls that must be manipulated in a certain way to release treats. They are usually made of break resistant plastic, and since they are round, they are hard to chew up or break teeth on. These toys not only indulge the need to chew, but they stimulate the dog and prevent boredom. These are my absolute favorite toys for puppies and dogs alike. The only challenge I have seen with these is that they can have a bit of a learning curve before the dog realizes that treats come out.
Dr. Weaver
About Dr. Sherry Weaver
Dr. Weaver graduated with honors from the University of Georgia's School of Veterinary Medicine. She founded a state-of-the-art animal hospital, teaches pet care to children, and donates time and resources to rescue organizations. For her full biography, click here.
Note: The opinions and views expressed in the Ask the Vet articles are the result of Dr. Sherry Weaver's formal education and over 14 years in clinical experiences. Your veterinarian is the best source of information for your pet’s specific needs.
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Awesome tips. I’ll be passing
Awesome tips. I’ll be passing this post on for sure
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pug diet
The two obvious solutions are to reduce caloric intake or increase caloric output. Feed less or exercise more. Every dog is different, so you cannot always go by the instructions on the dog food package. A quality dog food is balanced for the COMPLETE diet, so if you always give a chicken jerky and a milkbone you are offsetting the balance of the food you're feeding Otis (great name, btw).
For the dietary options, I see a couple pretty good choices that I would personally try.
1. Remove the milkbone and chicken jerky from the diet. That way you KNOW that Otis is getting a balanced diet, or you need to get a higher quality food source. I personally want the best food for my dog I can afford, so I pay $50 for a 35lb bag. That comes out to under $2 for 4 cups per day, which is pretty cheap compared to my own personal food costs. Dogs need us to do what's right for them. They don't want to be bathed and groomed, but they need it to survive, and we don't have a problem with that. Take away his treats though? how cruel!
(if you feel guilty about taking away his milkbone and chicken jerky, then when he gives you those puppy dog eyes and you break down, he has you trained pretty well!!!) Just know that by giving him a premium, MEAT based dog food you're doing the right thing for his health and happiness.
On a side note, is the chicken jerky cooked before its dried? I believe dogs aren't supposed to have cooked meat, their digestive system is designed to process raw meat and cooked meat provides more calories (or at least it doesn't require as many to break down, so the net caloric intake is higher).
If you change his diet, do it slowly over the course of a week to avoid loose stool and upset stomach.
Another rule of thumb is to keep the treats below 15% of his caloric intake. That would be like us having 5 meals a day, one of them being nothing but candy bars and ice cream, but the rest being very healthy.
2. the other dietary solution I can think of is to count the calories you're giving him. The milkbone will have caloric information on the package, same with the dog food, so you can calculate how many calories are in his daily diet pretty easily. The jerky could be tricky if its homemade, but otherwise you can figure that out pretty good too, just divide the serving size on the package so that you're using the right number of Calories. Once you know how many Calories he's taking in, reduce the food you're giving him by 10% based on calories and keep it like that for a couple weeks. If you exercise the same amount, you will see a change.
If you're feeding him 730 calories a day (2 cups of the food my puppy eats), plus a 120 Calorie milkbone, plus 30 Calories for a 20g slice of chicken jerky, then 880 * 0.1 = about 90 Calories, so if
90/730 = x/2 then solve for x and 90/730*2 = .25
so feed him 1/4 cup less dog food a day for a couple weeks, or 1.75 cups. Of course then you're giving him less nutritious, balanced food and more treats.
(120Cal+30Cal)treats/(790Cal)total = 19% treats, which is over the 15% rule of thumb.
My friend's 18 lb lhasa apso exercises similar amounts in the winter, but probably twice as much in the summer. She eats just under 1 cup a day in the winter and maybe even a cup and a half a day in the summer depending on exercise. She gains weight in the summer in muscle, but its easy to see. If they look very lean, with no gut, you can probably maintain or increase their calories. If they have ANY gut, the calories NEED to be reduced. Just remember: If they whine and stand by the food bowl, and you give them more food, you're training them to whine for food. Do the right thing for your dog. A healthy dog will be happier in the long run than one with clotted arteries and arthritis from hauling around extra pounds.
hang out with your dog....
I have an idea --- why don't you hang out with your puppy! I mean, outside 24/7? Bring him inside and play with the cute little lab. Take him out of his pen and WALK him at least 1 hour a day. seriously, why do you have a dog if you just keep him in a pen all the time? this question and response made me sad.
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vary your exercise
Obviously, playing with your puppy 24-7 is not a realistic goal. Some dogs have extremely high energy, many labs are definitely included. I have an australian labradoodle of 6 months, I walk her 1-5 miles a day, give her lots of training, interactive playtime and socialization with other dogs of varying energy levels and age daily. I give her nylabones and rope floss to chew on when she's in her crate (she loves it in there), but last week she chewed up a seatbelt in my car even though she had a rope toy to chew on. She never did this before, but for this reason you should always crate train your dog and keep them in one while you're not available to supervise them... for their own safety. If you train them properly and exercise them adequately they will always happily run to their crate at the first opportunity and take a nap.
That being said, especially with large breed puppies, overexercise before they're 2 years old can lead to hip dysplasia, so more exercise is not always the right answer. It's better to take multiple short walks in a day than one big long one until you know their limits. Your dog will probably slow down and try to lie down if you've gone too far for them. I usually shoot for 30-45 minutes on my walks, and then look for other ways to exhaust her, such as mentally, throwing a frisbee or ball, training with games, or socializing and wrestling with other dogs of the same activity level. You can exhaust a dog mentally just as thoroughly as physically. New training, commands, and other dogs are great for this. Join a class for $100 for expert guidance or get a book from the library or off the internet for $10.
Otis, rescue pug
My pug is 6 pounds over weight. I feed him one cup of dry food per day, 1/2 in the Morning and 1/2 in the evening. I rigerously walk him about 2 miles in the morning and four blocks in the evening. I give him, over the course of a day, one chicken jerkey(97% fat free) and 1/4 milk bone in the morning, after our walk. I do not believe I am over feeding him but for some reason he's not dropping any weight. I have checked all the dry dog food lables, and the type I feed him has only 7% crude fat. If I increase his exercise I will fade away, due to the fact, I have been loosing weight and am now size 5. What shall I do? I have owned him for 4 years.